Imperial Journey

The previous article on Steering Wheeling brought us up to date on steering wheel cosmetics, turn signals, and horn.

The Imperial was drivable but didn’t feel quite right. Which wasn’t entirely surprising since the entire suspension had been off the car and every part replaced. The good news was that I could now drive it to the local garage for a front end alignment! A call was made, an appointment scheduled, and the car delivered to the tender mercies of the garage.

I will admit to being somewhat surprised that the alignment went smoothly. The car now feels good while driving it around. Not like a new car, and it is still a huge barge, but much better than it used to drive. No strange noises, minimal to no play in the steering, no sudden lurches when turning, and no “excitement”. With the upgraded front sway bar and new rear sway bar it corners flatter. I haven’t tried any “spirited” driving since I don’t trust the old tires. Time to get some new tires and check out the total driving experience.

Some really great news: I had asked the garage to do a “pre-inspection” of the items on the state inspection and give me a list of things I still needed to do for the car to pass state inspection. I was hoping this list would be under three pages…

The mechanic asked me a set of questions: “Do the windshield wipers work? Do the turn signals work? Does the horn work?” The answers were yes, yes, and no – but here is the horn relay that I received after I brought the car in which should fix that problem.

When I went to pick the car up I was informed that it passed inspection, the sticker was installed, and I was good to go. And there was much rejoicing! I’m now completely legal to drive the car wherever I want to!

Another pleasant surprise: they adjusted the choke while working on the car – and this fixed the problems with the engine! The car now starts easily, idles much more smoothly when warming up, idles quite smoothly when warm, and no longer smells like it is running rich. I should have worked on the choke months ago. In any case “and there was much rejoicing!”

While the car was in the garage I also asked them to check and charge the air conditioning – the work leading up to this was covered in Chilling?. I was informed that they found a few small leaks which they fixed and then charged it. The AC was cooling, but not very well. They observed that the original AC expansion valve was still installed, and that since this valve was designed for R12 refrigerant it didn’t work well with the new R410A refrigerant.

I’m an idiot. I had purchased a new expansion valve, and really knew I should have installed it. I checked the new valve and, sure enough, it was labeled for R410A. I ran the new valve over to them. They then extracted the refrigerant from the system, replaced the expansion valve, made a new hose to fit the new expansion valve, and recharged the system. They discovered that the old expansion valve was clogged with debris, which certainly didn’t help, and said the AC condenser and evaporator should have been flushed out when I had the AC system apart.

The AC still isn’t cooling quite right. At a minimum the vacuum controlled air doors aren’t working correctly – a known problem, see This Blows: the Vacuum Side. More work is needed, but progress has been made.

After picking the Imperial up it was time to drive to the gas station and fill it up. I’ve described the driving experience – I actually enjoyed driving it! The gauge was reading empty when I headed out. After filling the tank the gauge slowly moved up to Full! Again, “and there was much rejoicing!”

The fill up took 15.7 gallons of gas. Since the tank holds 22 gallons, this means that there are ~6 gallons left when the gauge reads empty. Not ideal, but easy enough to work with. And I’m happier filling up early than running out of gas.

Now for the bad news. I went out to the workshop about an hour after parking the Imperial to discover the strong smell of gas as soon as I opened the door. Looking under the car I could see a puddle of gasoline under the car, dripping from the gas tank. Quickly checking I determined that the gas was leaking around the fuel sender fitting. Not Good! I’m just glad I didn’t wait until the next day to go out there!

Since the fuel sender fitting is located near the top of the tank I was able to stop the leak by draining 6 gallons of gas out of the tank.

Fixing this leak will involve dropping the gas tank, removing the fuel sender assembly, adding gasoline resistant sealer to the existing rubber sealing ring, and reinstalling the gas tank. Annoying, but should be straightforward. The gas resistant sealer is on order and should be here next week.

The good news about this is that I should be able to bend the float arm on the fuel sender to make the gauge more accurate. We will have to see what happens…

Next: Troubleshooting vacuum actuators for the heating system in This Sucks.

After making progess on the brakes in Stop It III plus More Good News it is time to turn.

Old steering wheels, especially from the ’50s and ’60s are horrible – cracks, gaps, splits, and missing pieces. My steering wheel was no exception.

Unfortunately this is just a fact of life. The plastic in the steering wheel shrinks over time and becomes more brittle. The steel core of the steering wheel doesn’t shrink. Something has to give, and it isn’t the steel! It is almost unavoidable – old steering wheels crack.

Fortunately, something can be done about this! Unfortunately it is a lot of work. Even more unfortunately I also managed to screw up some things I shouldn’t have touched…

There are actually books on repairing old steering wheels – like Steering Wheel Restoration Handbook. Eastwood even has a kit for steering wheels.

With the kit in hand, instructions read, and steering wheel off the car it was time to start. The first step is a good cleaning: a good scrub in the parts washer to clean off 50 years of grime followed by a wipedown with Prep-Sol.

PC-7 epoxy is the recommended material for filling in cracks and gaps. It works well, but is sticky and stringy. This makes it a bit challenging to work with.

The procedure is to fill in the cracks and gaps, let it set, then file, grind, and sand it down even with the rest of the steering wheel. Or where the rest of the steering wheel should be…

At this point you discover that you haven’t completely filled in the cracks flush with the surface, so you repeat the process. You repeat the process over and over, getting closer each time. I did four or five coats, with each coat requiring more time finishing and matching the surface to the original steering wheel. A die grinder with a sanding disk works great for rough adjustments, along with hand sanding for detail work.

PC-7 is great for bulk filling of gaps and cracks but doesn’t do a great job of making a finished surface – the sticky and stringy nature of the epoxy makes it difficult to do fine work. The next step is to get out the auto body filler, add it over the PC-7, and grind and sand it down to a smooth finish. It took four rounds with the auto body filler to get something I was happy with. Each coat got closer, having to look more and more carefully for the final imperfections.

The next to last step is to spray the entire steering wheel with high-build primer and sand it down with 220 grit and 400 grit sandpaper. After two coats of high-build primer and careful finish sanding the steering wheel looked great! However it was a dull gray.

They don’t make standard paint to match the steering wheel color, so I took a piece of dashboard trim to the auto paint store and had them use their color matching spectrometer to mix up a quart of paint the same color as the rest of the dash.

In the paint booth of the WorcShop I applied four coats of paint to the steering wheel to give it a durable finish. It looks great installed in the car!

Now for the confession of how I made life more difficult for myself: on the back of the steering wheel there is a copper disk that provides power for the horn. It is held in place by a cap, and the cap has two ears that operate the turn signal return. The insulating material for the copper disk was badly decayed, so I took everything off to replace it.

Bad idea. Very bad idea! After doing this I wasn’t ever able to get the cap back in place properly. In fact I managed to damage the turn signal return ears and damage the turn signal switch itself. The expedient thing to do was simply remove all of this and live without a horn or automatic turn signal return. Which I did.

That was a short term fix. Long term I have to have a working horn and turn signal return. I was able to locate another steering wheel, but was warned it was in poor condition. When it showed up it was indeed in poor condition – even worse than the original steering wheel. Well, at least it was cheap!

As I contemplated starting the restoration process on the replacement steering wheel and examined the retaining cap – which I was NOT going to touch! – I realized that I could get the critical dimensions off of the replacement steering wheel. I decided to make one last effort at getting the original steering wheel to work.

I cut out new tabs and welded them to the old cap. I made insulators for the horn power ring out of rubber sheet and electrical tape and fitted the horn power ring in place. Since the old cap had been falling off, I added epoxy to the inside of the cap and then used a section of pipe of the proper diameter to drive it into firm contact with the horn power ring insulator.

As intended, the turn signal return ears stuck up too far. With the untouched replacement steering wheel for reference I could measure how far these ears should stick up, transfer this measurement to the original steering wheel, and grind the ears to the proper length.

Everything should now work. With the steering wheel bolted to the steering column, check to see if the little brass wheel is properly riding on the horn power ring. It is! And it continues to ride on the power ring as the steering wheel is turned.

Now to the turn signal. The ears don’t dig into the switch, which is good – they aren’t too long. But are they long enough? Left turn signal, then steering wheel to the right – and the turn signal cancels! Right turn signal, steering wheel to the left – and the turn signal cancels!

Great! Everything is working! Put the rest of the steering wheel assembly back together, hook up the horns, and press on the horn. Sounds of silence…

Troubleshooting determined that the horn switch in the steering wheel is working, the horns themselves are working, and the horn relay is dead. A new horn relay is on order which should lead to everything actually working. Test drives confirm that the automatic turn signal return is working, so I don’t have to worry about manually canceling the turn signals any more.

Update: it was the horn relay. A new relay has the horns beeping enthusiastically.

Next: Aligned Inspection

After the air conditioning work covered in Chilling? the power brake booster showed up and seemed to be in one piece. Which meant it was time to reinstall it, cross my fingers, and try the brakes.

So I reinstalled the booster, checked the brake plunger clearance with the new tool (it was within spec), and bolted the master cylinder to the booster. At this point I noticed that the brake lights were on. Fortunately this was solved by adjusting the brake light switch.

The next step was to add some gas – the tank was still empty from when I worked on the fuel sender. After a bit of cranking the 413 roared to life. It’s still running rough when cold, but I was able to try the brakes.

Success! The brakes had power boost! While this was a really good sign, it wasn’t definitive. It was time to drive the car and try the brakes. The test drive was almost anticlimactic – the brakes “just worked”. Plenty of boost, smooth operation, the brakes felt good, and the car stopped like it was supposed to. Unlike some of the older power brakes it isn’t over-boosted. There is good pedal travel and smooth progressive braking without grabbing.

And there was much rejoicing!

It felt like the brakes were dragging a bit, so some more adjustment might be needed.

Since the drive around the block went smoothly I decided to live dangerously and drove over to the gas station. This extended test drive was successful and provided more good news:

Speedometer

The speedometer is working with the new speedometer cable. I need to check the speed against GPS since the speedometer was grossly inaccurate before, so we need to see how close it is after being re-calibrated.

Gas Gauge

I added four gallons of gas initially, and then added ten more gallons at the gas station. Since the tank holds 23 gallons the gauge should show just over one-half. The gauge actually read just under one-half – close enough! The next step is to check it with a full tank. Everything considered it is better to have the gauge reading a little low than a little high – it makes it less likely you will run out of gas.

Exhaust

Most of the exhaust noise is gone. I still need to check a few things, but it is much better than it was.

Engine

As mentioned, the engine was still running rough when cold. After it warmed up it was a different story – the engine runs smoothly, idles smoothly, accelerates nicely, and re-starts instantly. The poor performance when cold may be largely a fact of life for a carburated engine – I’ve been driving fuel injected cars for so long I’ve largely forgotten how the old cars ran.

Overall

Today was a good day. More work to do, but a breakthrough compared to the last test drive!

Next: turning things around with Steering Wheeling.

The previous post Two Steps Forward. One Step Back. 1/2 Step Forward? covered mixed news on the power brake booster. While waiting for resolution on the brake booster I might as well tackle another job.

Air conditioning is vital. Yes, even in New England. When I got the Imperial I was told “the air conditioning was working – it just needs a recharge”. Yeah, right! This is one of the great lies of old cars, right up there with “it was running when it was parked” (20 years ago), “it just needs a tune-up” (meaning it is badly broken or completely worn out), and “it is rust free” (no such thing on an old car!).

The real story is that all the parts are there, the compressor turned freely and didn’t make unusual noises, and the compressor clutch engaged. These old Chrysler RV2 AC compressors are pretty well bulletproof, so the chances are good that there were leak(s) in the system that need to be fixed but it could be brought back to life.

The plan of attack was to rebuild the compressor, replace the hoses, carefully tighten all the fittings, and see if it leaks. If no leaks are found, recharge with R134A refrigerant and enjoy cool driving.

The original plan was to send the compressor out to be rebuilt. However this is expensive, long lead times (8 -12 weeks), and very expensive shipping – the RV2 is about 30 lbs. of classic steel. Keep in mind that the AC compressor has to be installed to run the car – the belts for the alternator and water pump also run the AC compressor. I didn’t want to have the car out of commission for 2-3 months. Oh, who am I kidding – there are plenty of other things also keeping the car off the road!

A complete set of gaskets and seals for a rebuild is around $100, so I ordered those and had them sitting on the shelf. After all, “how hard can it be?”…

The first step was to pull the compressor off the car and take it over to the parts washer for a good cleaning.

Actually, the first step was to review the factory service manual and check YouTube videos to get an idea of what to do and to hopefully avoid mistakes. The RV2 is actually pretty simple, so it looked like I was good to go.

Pulling the heads was interesting. The gaskets were really stuck to the mounting surfaces – so thoroughly stuck that the gaskets themselves pulled apart! These old gaskets were really difficult to clean off. I ended up scraping with a razor blade and then cleaning up with a ScotchBrite Roloc on a die grinder.

While the RV2 is simple there are still quite a few parts that need to go back in the proper places. All parts were layed out on a clean workbench in the order they were removed and maintaining the relationships between the parts. The parts were cleaned and checked for wear as they were removed; fortunately everything seemed reasonable – some wear, but still serviceable.

Reassembly was straightforward – basically reverse the disassembly process. All internal parts got a good coating of AC Oil to avoid a damaging dry start of the compressor. My torque wrenches got a good workout – proper torque is critical for the connecting rod bolts, the head bolts, and the sump pan bolts. The smaller torque wrenches were used – 1/4″ and 3/8″.

One interesting challenge involved the piston rings. These rings must be compressed to fit inside the piston bore. The proper tool for this is a ring compressor. Of course I did’t have a ring compressor for these small (roughly 2″) pistons. But I did have hose clamps! I’m sure this isn’t the recommended approach, but it worked to get the pistons back in the bores.

With the compressor back together it was time to scrub it thoroughly with PrepSol to remove all traces of AC Oil from the outside, prime it with etch primer, and hit it with a couple of coats of black paint. Then stick it back in the car and move on to trying to find someone to make new AC hoses.

Next: the power brake booster shows up. Is the second time a charm? Find out in Stop It III plus More Good News.

After the Not a Good Day things seemed to be improving. In Tanks A Lot it even looked like the gas gauge was working!

I called Power Brake Booster Exchange who had rebuilt the (wait for it…) power brake booster and described what I was seeing with the brakes. Their verdict was “sounds like something inside the booster isn’t right; send it back and we will take a look”.

So I did and they did.

And then I got the email. With pictures. The main hub is broken, not repairable, they don’t have any of these boosters and they don’t have any parts.

The main hub is a plastic piece. A 60 year old plastic piece. That is fairly easy to break in shipping unless the brake booster is packed very carefully. Now I learn this…

OK, time to find a replacement. I went through my list of usual suspects for Imperial parts and got the same response across the board. “No, I don’t have any. These are really popular and hard to come by. They go really fast when I do get one.”

Krud. On a stick. With a side of rancid krud! Brakes are kind of necessary on a car. I’m rapidly moving back to a not so good day.

I posted a note asking for help on the Online Imperial Club mailing list. Someone suggested trying Murray B. Park, so I gave him a call.

He said that he didn’t have a ready to install booster, but he did have a rebuildable core. I grabbed that while I had the chance and asked him to ship it directly to Power Brake Booster Exchange. Apparently this isn’t the first time he has done this. He claims to know how to pack things so that UPS can’t break them. I pointed out that this is a rather bold claim. He acknowledged that I had a point…

Things are looking better than they did yesterday. This is a half step forward. As soon as I have a working booster installed in the car it will be a full step forward.

In the meantime I’m sitting here muttering under my breath “It’s only money. It’s only money. It’s only money. “

While waiting for (hopefully) good news on the brake booster let’s take some time for Yet More Workshoppery Storage. Or go straight to the next restoration article Chilling?.

After installing the New Speedometer Cable! in the previous post it was time to move to the next item.

Despite having a new sender the gas gauge still doesn’t work – it remains on empty. There might be a problem with the gauge, the sender, the wiring – or the tank might actually be empty. After all, this is a new gas tank that has never had more than a few gallons in it. And the car has been running incredibly rich, which would make it use a lot of gas. Hopefully the recent carburetor rebuild will help with the running rich situation.

The obvious way to find out would be to just fill it up. The downside is that a full tank is hard to work on. Filling it up is basically betting that it is good, with a real downside if I need to do more work on the tank.

Since the car was already up on jackstands and the speedometer cable installation went well I decided to go ahead and drop the gas tank.

The first step was to siphon out as much gas as possible. Which proved to be “none” – I couldn’t get the siphon to work at all. Deciding to take a chance I went ahead and dropped the tank. This isn’t really a huge job: support the tank with a floor jack, disconnect two fuel lines, unplug one wire to the sender, undo two bolts, and lower the tank on the floor jack.

With the tank out I emptied the gasoline – less than two gallons. OK, the gas gauge was reading empty because the tank was actually empty.

With the tank out I removed the sender assembly. Everything looked fine. The float assembly moved freely and the float was dry – no gasoline leaking into the float.

The bare float assembly was connected to the gas gauge wire and to ground and the car was turned on. The gas gauge remained on empty.

Next the float assembly was turned upside down so that the float was in the full position. This time the gas gauge moved to full!

At this point we had verified that the gas gauge, wiring, and sender all worked. Which is very good news!

The sender assembly was carefully reinstalled in the gas tank making sure it wasn’t binding on anything. The tank was then balanced on the floor jack, lifted into place, and everything reconnected.

The only thing left to do is add enough gas to drive to the gas station, fill it up (23 gallons of premium…) and verify that everything works in real life as well as the test case.

Next: more “progress” in Two Steps Forward. One Step Back. 1/2 Step Forward?.

With the exhaust problems hopefully cured in Manifold Destiny it was time to move to the next item on the list.

After renewing my search for a one piece speedometer cable I found a listing that claimed to support multiple cars – including a 1963 Imperial without cruise control. Most Imperial parts are unique, but the description sounded right and they claimed to have it in stock. Well, you can always return it if it doesn’t fit… Time to drag out the abused credit card and take a chance!

The first good sign was getting a tracking number for a shipment. And a package actually arrived! Hmm, the part that goes in the transmission looks right and the length seems reasonable. Now, is the fitting that screws into the back of the speedometer the right size?

The only way to find out is to check it. Six screws hold the instrument cluster in place; remove those and slide the instrument cluster forward. Where it bumps into the steering wheel before you can see the back of the cluster and the speedometer cable.

The steering wheel needs to be worked on anyway, so find the needed puller, undo the steering wheel bolt, and pull it out. With the steering wheel out it is now possible to move the instrument cluster forward another inch. You can now see the back of the instrument cluster, and it looks like the nut on the speedometer cable is the right size.

Apparently the new speedometer cable is the right length and has the correct fittings on both ends. The only thing to do is install it and see if it works.

With the car up on jackstands, unbolt the old speedometer cable from the transmission and wiggle it out. Which promptly starts dumping transmission fluid out of the now vacant hole. Of course the drive gear needs to be moved from the old cable to the new cable, so you can’t just immediately install the new cable.

Fortunately this was expected and I had a large drain pan in place to catch the transmission fluid. Stuff a rag in the hole to minimize the flow and start working on the cable.

The end of the speedometer cable that goes into the transmission has a gear on it. This gear is specific to the rear-end ratio; this allows the speedometer to work accurately with different rear end gears just by changing the gear on the end of the speedometer cable. Since the rear end ratio hasn’t changed I needed to move the gear from the old cable to the new cable. Undo the retaining clip from the gear, move the gear from the old cable to the new cable, and reinstall the retaining clip. It was actually almost as easy as it sounds.

Next you pull the rag out of the transmission and quickly install the new cable. Wiggle the fitting until the gear lines up inside the transmission and the fitting is flush with the transmission. Install the retaining bolt and the transmission end is done.

Moving to the other end of the cable, the first thing is to unscrew the old cable from the back of the speedometer and then pull the old cable through the firewall grommet and completely remove it.

The new cable is routed through the engine compartment and worked through the rubber grommet in the firewall. At this point it is time to get on your back under the dashboard and work the speedometer cable through the tangle of wires, brake brackets, vacuum hoses, windshield wiper linkages, and emergency brake pieces to somewhere near the back of the instrument cluster.

Hmm, why is the end of that vacuum hose just hanging there? And why is there a fitting on the Parking Brake Automatic Vacuum Pulloff (unique to Imperials) with nothing attached to it? Could this be both a vacuum leak and the reason the automatic parking brake release doesn’t work? Might as well reconnect the hose while I’m in here.

And now back to your speedometer cable program already in progress:

Moving to a new position, ease the new speedometer cable into place in the back of the instrument cluster and tighten down the retaining nut. This might possibly have been a bit more difficult than this description implies…

With the new speedometer cable installed, ease the instrument cluster back into place and reinstall the screws.

The new speedometer cable is now installed and ready to test!

Unfortunately some rather critical parts are missing. The power brake booster is out being rebuilt (again), so the car can’t be driven. But everything “should work” and I can now start on other projects that had been blocked while the AutoPilot was in place.

Next: (hopefully) fixing the gas gauge in Tanks A Lot.

In the last article I whined about a bad day with the Imperial. After a day like that the only thing to do is:

1. Put the tools down and walk away before you do something expensive, painful, or both.
2. Come back and start working through the list item by item.

Let’s start with the exhaust. I immediately identified two problems: First the shafts on the Manifold Heat Control Valve were completely shot. Yeah, that’s an exhaust leak. One that I should have done something about two years ago when the engine was on the stand and everything was easy to get to.

Second, the headpipe was rubbing on the torsion bar. It looks like the headpipe moved a bit when I re-worked the rest of the exhaust.

Third of two problems is the number 8 spark plug lead was dangling loose. That wasn’t an exhaust problem but would certainly contribute to the engine not running well.

OK, new plan: Remove the exhaust manifold, fix the leak, and readjust the headpipe when I put it back together.

I’ll need new gaskets when I put it back together. Hmm, RockAuto has a closeout special on a FelPro (good brand) exhaust manifold gasket set for $4.58. Order that before they run out!

Cars from the 1960’s used a Manifold Heat Control Valve to route hot exhaust gas through the intake manifold to quickly warm it and better vaporize gas in the carburetor. These are spring loaded flapper valves which often get stuck and cause problems. The Manifold Heat Control Valve is important in the winter but not really needed in warm weather.

The bushings for the heat control valve were gone, meaning that the valve moved freely but there were large exhaust gas leaks. Since I’m not going to be driving the Imperial much in cold weather a reasonable option is to just remove the whole assembly and plug the holes. Which is exactly what I did!

The valve assembly had to be cut out, which actually went smoothly. I measured the holes that were left to determine how much they needed to be drilled out for a bolt – and discovered that they were exactly the right size for a 5/16-24 UNF bolt. As a result of a recent bolt buying spree I “just happened” to have a box of short 5/16-24 UNF bolts. And a 5/16-24 tap. Run a tap through the holes, install the bolts, and the manifold was almost ready to go back on.

Another potential exhaust leak is where the exhaust manifold and headpipe bolt together. If these surfaces aren’t flat a leak can develop – this is a common occurrence in old cars.

The secret to making exhaust flanges flat is having a flat surface to work with – and my workbench has a machined top that is really flat. Time to tape down some sandpaper so it doesn’t move and start sanding the mating surfaces. When you do this the high point on the flanges become shiny and the low points remain dirty. This lets you clearly see the high and low points, and you continue until the whole surface is uniformly shiny. Or at least close enough…

At this point the flanges on the exhaust manifold and headpipe are flat enough that the gasket will seal.

The next step is to install the exhaust manifold on the car. This involves laying on the fender, holding myself up with one hand, and trying to start the nuts on blind studs underneath the exhaust manifold that I can’t see while balancing everything. It is about as easy as it sounds.

After bolting the manifold to the block the headpipe is loosely installed and adjusted to clear the torsion bar. This remains a tight fit – there is only about 1/4″ clearance between the headpipe and the torsion bar. Hopefully this will be enough. At least there is now positive clearance and not negative clearance. “Negative clearance” is the engineering term for “interference”.

Next: I actually found a New Speedometer Cable! Does it fit?