Imperial Journey

The previous post covered the installation of the new disk brake rotors and calipers. The next step is to hook everything up.

As previously mentioned, I’m upgrading from the original single master cylinder to a dual master cylinder. This both provides additional safety in case a brake line or wheel cylinder fails and also provides a proper balance between front and rear brakes.

Since the power brake booster is almost sixty years old, I sent it out to Power Brake Booster Exchange for a rebuild and installation of a new master cylinder. They confirmed that I’m going with front disk/drum rear brakes and provided the correct master cylinder. I also had them return the original master cylinder – I’m saving all of the original parts in case someone wants to return to a factory configuration in the future.

Once the booster and master cylinder were installed it was time to run new brake lines. I’ve had brakes fail on older cars due to pin-hole leaks from rusty brake lines. Fortunately the failure was gradual, but it left me stranded overnight on the side of the road on a long trip. This has lead me to a philosophy of completely replacing all parts when doing brakes on old cars.

In the past I’ve used regular steel brake lines. They work well, but they are difficult to bend and prone to rust. I’ve read about new cupro-nickel brake lines – an alloy of copper and nickel, which is used on many new cars. Cupro-nickel is completely corrosion free, so it will never rust out. It is also supposed to be easy to work with. Unlike steel brakelines which come in straight segments which are typically 5’ or 6’ long, cupro-nickel comes in 25’ rolls. This allows you to run a single continuous brake line with no fittings – another way to minimize leaks!

The cupro-nickel line is indeed easy to work with. I tried a couple of different techniques for bending it, and ended up doing most of the work with a set of bending pliers which have radiused jaws:

These pliers make it easy to make bends wherever you need them without crimping the brake lines.

Armed with these tools I first routed the line for the right wheel. This required forming a large arc to match the front cradle of the engine, and then routing the line past the A-frame mounts, over the frame rail, and up to the bracket for the flex hose. This job went surprisingly well.

Using steel lines this would have required two or three pieces – and I probably would have had to re-do it two or three times! The cupro-nickel is easy to tweak and adjust. I’m pretty well sold on these new brake lines.

The front brakes require a T-fitting to split the line from the master cylinder into lines to the left and right wheels. So, decide on a good place to mount the T-fitting, adjust the brake lines to it, and install everything. Of course, you have to remember to install the nuts on each segment of line before you flare the ends…

Speaking of flaring, brake lines require a double flare – which I hadn’t done before. So I purchased a fairly highly rated flaring kit, cut some short lengths of brake line, and started making practice flares. I wasn’t happy with the results – the flares were frequently off-center and poorly shaped.

There is another style of double flaring tool that is supposed to be easier to use – almost idiot proof, in fact. This style is more expensive and requires separate tool for each size of line. Since stopping is important and the tool was less than $50, I decided to give it a try.

It turns out that the reviews were right – the tool is easy to use and produces good flares. It is self centering and self adjusting: just follow the directions and it “just works”. The ability to flare a line on the car is surprisingly useful – run and fit the line, cut it to length, flare it in place, and tighten the fittings.

Speaking of fittings, I mentioned that it is necessary to install the nut before flaring. I remembered to do this, and was rather proud of myself. When running the lines to the master cylinder I just stuck the end of the line in the master cylinder port to get everything dry fitted. I then installed the nut, flared the end – and discovered that the nut was the wrong size! This was the same size nut that worked everywhere else, but not on the master cylinder.

Fine. Dig around the collection of brake line nuts and find one that fit. Cut the flare off of the line, remove the old nut, insert the new nut, and flare it again. Fortunately there was enough line to still reach the master cylinder, so this wasn’t a real problem.

Now being paranoid, I found another nut the same size and tried it in the other port on the master cylinder – and it didn’t fit! So, dig around in the fittings, and find another one that fits. NOW install the nut on the line, flare it, and screw it into the master cylinder.

After thinking about this for a few minutes, it almost makes sense. Using different size fittings on the ports prevents people from switching the front and rear brakes, which would result in seriously unbalanced braking. Something else to watch out for on future brake jobs…

In any case, everything is now hooked up to the master cylinder:

The last bit is the rear brake line, running along the frame rail. The silver wrap on the line is a stainless steel spring that protects the brake line from rocks and other hazards. It is used everywhere the lines are exposed to flying rocks and similar threats.

At this point the brakes are almost done. I need to add brake fluid and bleed the air out of the lines. I also need to rebuild the rear brakes. The rear brakes are a challenge due to the special tools needed to remove the rear drums. I may just pull out the whole rear end and have it rebuilt.

Next: The WorcShop

5,000+ pounds of classic American steel requires substantial authority to both start and stop. The massive 13″ drum brakes that came from the factory were up to the task when the car was new. Today is a different story, unfortunately. The braking was actively scary, with the car pulling badly to one side.

Yes, rebuilding and adjusting the brakes would make a big difference. But you would still have the factory single master cylinder. So I decided to upgrade to front disk brakes and a dual master cylinder.

Fortunately a disk brake conversion kit is available from AAJ Brakes. They recommended getting the basic kit and buying the standard parts locally – it seems that shipping for ~50 pounds of hub, rotor, calipers, and other assorted pieces gets expensive. The basic kit includes a pair of massive caliper brackets along with assorted bolts, spacers, installation instructions, and a parts list for sourcing everything else from your local parts store.

The parts list calls out an interesting collection of parts, including 73-74 Ford F100 rotors, 71-76 Impala calipers, and 76 Monte Carlo brake hoses. I purchased all of the parts and put them on the shelf.

After getting the rest of the front suspension assembled, the new caliper brackets installed easily. That should have been my clue that things were about to go sideways…

I pulled the F100 rotors off the shelf, opened the box, and noticed that they were removable rotors. Which is great, except that you need a hub to go on the spindles. So, back to the parts store to get a set of hubs to go with the rotors.

Open up the new hubs, position them over the spindles, and have immediate questions. The inside of the hub is huge – there is no way that the bearing and seal will fit it, and it doesn’t seem to match the spindle at all. Also, there are a set of splines inside the hub that don’t seem to match anything on the car. After staring at this for a minute, the light bulb clicks on: these look like 4wheel drive hubs!

So, back to the parts store. The counter guy says that these are the only hubs listed. I ask him to check for 2wheel drive. His next words were “Would you look at that! As soon as I specify 2wheel drive it brings up a completely different listing.”

The 2wheel drive hubs were an integrated hub/rotor assembly that fit perfectly. Actually installing them was a 15 minute job, with 10 minutes of that spent packing the wheel bearings with grease.

Here you see the new caliper bracket, rotor, and caliper. You can also see the rough routing of the brake line. A future article will cover routing and installing the brake lines and finishing off the stopping system.

Next: Stop It! Part Deux

Getting the frame and bottom of the car painted brings me to a breakthrough – I can actually start putting things back on the car! The first step is the front suspension.

The starting point is to install the bushings and ball joints in the upper A-frame and lower suspension arm. The bushings press into the upper A-frames fairly easily.

The lower suspension arm has a spindle and requires a cylinder of the correct diameter to press that bushing into place. Of course, since this is an Imperial, it requires a couple of tries to get the correct bushing.

Installing the ball joints is a “special experience”. The Chrysler ball joints are screwed in and cut their own threads. They use a special 2-9/64″ socket and require massive amounts of torque. Fortunately I now have a large vise on a workbench that is bolted to the wall. The procedure is to clamp the control arm in the vise and lock the vise down so it doesn’t rotate. The new ball joints are started carefully so that they don’t cross thread. The first few turns are done using a regular 1/2″ ratchet. After it gets too hard to turn that, bring out the 24″  ratchet. After that gets too hard to turn, it is time for the three foot 3/4″ breaker bar! Nope, not quite enough. Add the 6 foot cheater bar to the breaker bar, lean on it, and snug up the ball joint.

Actually installing the upper and lower control arms and the spindles was easy. The factory service manual has instructions for doing this – some of the suspension parts shouldn’t be tightened until the car is on the ground with full weight on the tires.

Installing the torsion bars is a bit tedious. They have to be installed through the adjusters, which are located on the rear cross member. This requires 3 hands, preferably small hands to reach into the tight space, and wrestling with blind parts and 3′ long steel rods weighing 15-20 pounds. The instructions tell you to heavily grease the fittings and to make sure you don’t mix the left and right torsion bars.

At this point you are ready install the rebuilt steering box, drag link, and tie rod ends. Of course, one part is missing… I had to send the drag link out to be rebuilt, so the suspension won’t be done until that gets back. While most suspension parts are available new, the drag link is an Imperial-only part that isn’t available and can only be rebuilt.

It feels really good to finally be making some visible progress!

Next: Stop It!

When I last wrote, most of the preparation of the bottom of the car had been done. All that was left was to actually get some paint on it!

The first challenge is that the car is on jack stands and is only 18″ off the floor. It is possible to work under it, but not easy. Painting involves the paint flowing from the paint cup into the spray gun – which means that it doesn’t work if the spray gun is held upside down, sideways, or at strange angles. Painting the bottom of the car involves almost nothing but holding the spray gun upside down, sideways, and at strange angles!

Fortunately DeVilbiss has a solution in their DeKups system. This system uses disposable plastic bladders to hold the paint. While the main purpose of DeKups is to make cleanup easier, one of the side effects is that the gun will spray in any position. The plastic bladder collapses as pain is sprayed, so there is never any air in the cup and there is no place for the paint to run.

Devilbis even offers a DeKups starter kit which is surprisingly inexpensive. It is almost like they think people will be hooked once they try it…

Painting the bottom of the car is something I never want to do again – which means do it right the first time! In this case that involves two coats of epoxy primer and two coats of paint.

Before painting it was necessary to cover everything in the workshop to protect it from paint overspray. This is a pain; it would be much better to have a real spray booth. Something to think about in the future.

Actually spraying the paint is the fastest part of the job. After months of preparation I was able to actually spray in just a few hours!

As a reminder, this is what the bottom of the car looked like before:

And this is what it looks like now:

The brown material on top of the frame rails isn’t rust – it is grinding dust from other work that needs to be blown off.

I’m actually rather happy with how this is turning out! Now to start putting the suspension back together.

Confession: I haven’t actually done the entire bottom of the car. I’ve done back to the rear wheel wells. I still need to remove the rear end, rear suspension, and gas tank and prep and paint the rest of it. Which I’m not looking forward to! The strategy was to do things so that I can put the car back together mechanically and even start driving it. The rest of the bottom can be done as a later project.

Next: No Longer In Suspension

The plan was to wire brush the rust off of the front end frame, paint it, and start putting things back together. This plan immediately hit several snags…

First, there were rust holes in the firewall behind the doubler plate – the black piece in the center just above the transmission tunnel. This is underneath the large heater box, and is an area that traps leaves and pine needles. I had to clean out a lot of gunk in this area when I started working on the car, so this wasn’t a major surprise. It wasn’t a large area – roughly 4” x 6” to get back to solid metal. So, cut out a piece of the doubler, cut out the rust-eaten area on the firewall, and weld in a patch.

Of course I didn’t cut out enough of the doubler. After fighting the edges of the patch for a while, I finally just cut out the whole bottom half of the doubler to get enough room to work on the patch. Started a new, larger patch, formed it to the curves of the firewall, and then welded it in place. This actually went quite a bit easier than I expected.

The next step was to weld the pieces of the doubler back together and then weld it back in place. Except that the doubler was now too narrow! After studying it for a while, I realized that I had just butted the pieces of the doubler together, resulting in the doubler being narrower by the width of the cutting disk for each cut I had made.

This wasn’t enough to really make a difference, and no one would ever notice it when everything was back together. But I would know it, and it would bug me for years. So, cut the doubler in half, mount the two pieces back in place so that everything fit and lined up, make a filler piece for the cut, and tack it in place. Then remove the doubler, weld it up and grind smooth.

Since water tends to get trapped in this area, I took advantage of the opportunity to prime and paint this area of the firewall and the doubler piece with two coats of paint. The next step was to liberally coat the firewall and the back of the doubler with seam sealer, and then position it in its original location. The doubler was originally spot welded. I had drilled out the spot welds, which left me with holes that I could plug weld. After grinding down the plug welds you couldn’t tell anything had been done.

The frame responded well to a wire brush on an angle grinder. Fortunately and unfortunately, the bottom of the car was covered with undercoating. 50 year old heavily applied asphaltic undercoating… When new, this protected the floor and contributed to the quiet Imperial experience.

When 50 years old it was a combination of missing, cracked, falling off in sheets, and stubbornly attached. Now, this undercoating was a good part of the reason the floor was still solid, so I could have left it in place. But the poor condition of the undercoating bothered me, so it had to go!

I had discovered that the best way to remove this undercoating was a heat gun and scraper. Hold the heat gun on a small area for a minute or so, scrape off the softened undercoating, and then move to the next small area. Keep in mind that the bottom of an Imperial is roughly the size of a football field…

Inspiration struck – make an arm to hold and position the heat gun! After raiding the scrap wood pile I had this arm which would hold the heat gun in whatever position was needed.

The routine was to crawl under the car, point the heat gun at the next patch of undercoating, and lay on my back for a minute while the undercoating softened. Then move the heat gun a few inches, scrap the softened spot, and wait for the next spot to soften. Over and over and over.

It took me a few months to actually get the whole thing done.

Of course, scraping doesn’t remove all of the residue. So the next step was to scrub down the bottom with Prep-Sol and a sponge or abrasive pad. Did I mention that the bottom of this car is roughly the size of a football field?

After finishing removing the undercoating, I still had surface rust on the frame and various areas of the floor. The obvious thing was to use the wirebrush on the angle grinder. But the angle grinder was far to heavy and awkward to use under the car.

Die grinders, on the other hand, are light and small. Another chance to buy tools! A few days later these showed up, along with Roloc adapters and a variety of abrasives.

Roloc is an absolutely great system. The 3M abrasive disks do a great job of surface prep. You go through quite a few of them covering this much area, but they are relatively inexpensive and much faster and easier than trying to do hand prep.

After a few more days of prep, the frame, firewall, and floor were ready for primer and paint.

Next: Shiny Bottom

It hasn’t really been 10 months since I did any work – I’m just way behind on updating the blog. My original goal had been to get the car back on the road in 2018. My new goal is to get to the point where I am putting things back on the car rather than taking more things off. Every time I touch something I uncover more to be done. While the car is structurally sound and in amazing shape, there is surface rust everywhere. With all the work and money going into the car I just can’t leave it like that.

The entire front suspension, down to the torsion bars and crossmember, is out. All new bushings, tie-rod ends, and balljoints are going in. A front disk brake conversion kit, all new brake lines, and an upgraded 1″ sway bar are ready to go back in. The power steering box has been rebuilt, as has the brake booster. As part of the disk brake upgrade, the master cylinder has been upgraded from single to dual. It is going to be interesting putting this back together, as the Autopilot cruise control sits where the new brake lines need to be run.

As a side note, the Chrysler ball joints are screwed it. I had been warned about this, I had the proper 2-9/64″ socket as well as a 3/4″ x 3′ breaker bar and a 4′ cheater pipe ready to go. I had also acquired a 2′ long ratchet. Surprisingly, I didn’t need the cheater – the 3′ breaker bar provided enough leverage, once I put all my weight on it. This may be a hint that I need to go on a diet… In any case, the ball joint came out fairly smoothly.

Cleaning the suspension parts was “interesting”. There was a thick coating of grease, dirt, and other substances on most of the parts. Extensive scraping removed most of it. Some had hardened to the consistency of concrete, and had to be chiseled off. After the bulk removal, it was over to the parts washer and spend lots of time scrubbing and scraping to get the rest of the gunk off. There are too many front end parts and they are too big on this car!

After cleaning and painting the control arms, it was time to install the new ball joints. These are much too easy to cross thread. What should have been a one minute job took over two hours. The big ratchet and the 3/4″ breaker bar got a good workout. Once the ball joint was started straight it screwed in smoothly – but took major muscle on the breaker bar to drive it in.

While the engine and suspension were out, it was time to clean and prep the frame. Normally I would just pull the fenders, inner fender wells, and other front end pieces. The 1961-1963 Imperials have a one piece front end – the fenders and nose are all one piece! Actually they are made from several stampings, but the individual stampings are  welded together and all of the seams are leaded. This looks great, as the entire front end is smooth and unbroken, but is a pain to work with.

The original plan was to leave the front end sheet metal in place and clean and paint the frame. This was difficult to do, as all the sheet metal was in the way. Studying the situation showed that there were only 6-10 bolts holding the inner fender wells in, so I pulled those out. Much more space! And everything now exposed was covered in surface rust. It looks like Chrysler didn’t even prime the hidden parts of the firewall; it looked like bare steel. Nothing rusted through, but there is a uniform coat of surface rust.

I didn’t want to pull the front end off because it is one piece and large, heavy, and floppy. Picking it up and moving it seemed like an invitation to seriously bend things. Then inspiration struck – put in some cross bracing across the back, use the engine hoist with straps to pick it up, and call a friend.

This worked great; the front end is now off the car and upside down to work on. There are a couple of rusty patches that were under the rocker panel trim piece; other than that, everything is surface rust. You can clearly see rusty areas, especially the large pan in the center, that I couldn’t get to while this was on the car. This had been really bugging me – now I can treat it properly.

I can now get to the entire front frame, which needs cleanup and rust treatment. And it will be MUCH easier to put it back together like this! The suspension should go back on easily and the engine and transmission should slip right in. Hmm, I may even want to put the exhaust on before the sheet metal!

Next: Bottoms Down

Having some end of year vacation time to use up and a new heater in the workshop I planned to rebuild the front suspension and upgrade to disk brakes.

The heater was only able to warm the workshop about 20 degrees, so if the outside temperature is in the 20’s the workshop will be in the 40’s – and New England is about to drop below 0! OK, have to insulate the workshop before working in the middle of winter. I decided that “this just isn’t fun” and found indoor things to do after a couple of days. But I did make progress before retreating inside!

Pulling the brakes was interesting. The brake shoes were worn and both wheel cylinders were leaking. All of the brake hardware was corroded. One side was loose and the other side was dragging. No wonder the braking was so scary! I’m glad I’m upgrading to front disc brakes.

The first part of removal was easy. In this picture you can see the torsion bars, drag link, and steering box.

The drag link came out easily – undo the ball joint nut, insert a pry bar, and then pop the ball joint free. The big ball joints in the steering knuckle were a different story… After a couple of hours of prying, pounding with large hammers, and use of applicable language, they were still frozen solid.

It was clearly time to get the right tools. As I was getting ready to head over to Harbor Freight I considered how the Imperial front end is heavy duty and locked in place with with 60 years of corrosion. I really didn’t want these tools breaking at the wrong time – heavy pieces of sharp edged metal flying around can lead to a bad day. Checking online OTC got the best reviews for heavy duty use.

So, two days later an OTC front end set showed up:

All of the tie rod ends popped off easily with no problems. Having the right tools for the job makes all the difference! Now to the Big Job – removing the steering knuckle from the ball joints.

The ball joints use the separator tool in the middle of the box. Slip the separator onto the upper ball joint and tighten it down. Nothing. Not really a surprise… Next step is to hit it with the impact wrench. Again, nothing. OK, I got the OTC set to be able to abuse it. Set the impact wrench on its highest level and just let it run.

After several seconds of the drive bolt slowly turning there was a loud “spoing” and the separator popped off. Checking it, the tool was fine – the the ball joint was free! Pro tip: always leave the nut loosely on the ball joint when freeing it; then when it breaks loose the heavy parts don’t go flying.

With the top ball joint free it was time to do the bottom one. Slide the ball joint tool on it – and discover that it is just a little bit too small. Remember when I mentioned that Imperial parts are large? None of the other pullers would fit – they hit the upper ear on the steering knuckle. So, back online. Found one source for an over-size spreader that looks like it should work. It will be here in a few days; hopefully it is strong enough for the Imperial!

Update: the over-size spreader worked on two of the remaining three ball joints, but the last one absolutely refused to budge. After fighting it for a few hours I noticed that there is a space between the body of the ball joint and the steering knuckle – just enough room to get in there with cutting disk without touching the knuckle or the suspension arm. One minute with the angle grinder cutting the ball joint apart and the knuckle was off. With the knuckle off and on the workbench, there was plenty of room to get the heavy duty separator tool in place, tighten it down, and smack the body of the knuckle with the BFH (“Big Forceful Hammer”). The remnants of the ball joint popped right out.

The power steering box is out and has been sent off to be rebuilt. The brake booster is out and has been sent off to be rebuilt and to have the master cylinder upgraded from single reservoir to dual reservoir – an important part of the disc brake upgrade.

And hopefully it will warm up enough to get back into the workshop before July.

Next: Front End Removal

The first step in removing the motor is to remove everything attached to the motor – top, sides, bottom, front, and back. It took me close to two months to get all of this done – there are a lot of things attached to the motor, and surprisingly little room to work.

Some of the parts coming off and out were easy, and some fought me all the way. Since the exhaust was welded, the plan was to unbolt it from the exhaust manifolds and leave it in place. Of course, it didn’t work out that way.

The exhaust manifold bolts were inaccessible and rusted; I managed to get one off, round one off, and give up on the other two before too much blood was shed. The exhaust was so close to the drive shaft that I couldn’t get to the center carrier bearing. I ended up having to cut the exhaust to take it out. In five pieces. For each side… For such a huge car, there is no space to work in surprising places.

I had decided to pull the motor and transmission out as a unit. In retrospect this was a wise decision – there is so little clearance between the transmission and the transmission hump that it would have been impossible to get to all of the engine/transmission bolts.

I had to remove the radiator support to open up enough room for this. This proved to be another project – Chrysler used many bolts and some “creative” attachments for this. But, the support finally gave up and came out.

After all the prep work getting ready, actually pulling the motor was anticlimactic. I called a friend over to help. We chained the engine to the hoist, jacked slowly and moved things carefully, and the engine and transmission just slid out! This job went so smoothly I just kept looking for the disaster that had to be lurking. Nope, no problems.

Split the engine and transmission, remove the rest of the accessories from the engine, and start the expensive part.

Based on recommendations from people in the Chrysler 300 club, I took the transmission to Don Verity in Rhode Island. When I talked to Don he was very familiar with the pushbutton transmissions and with Imperials. Even better, when I pulled up to his shop there were three 1950s and 1960s Imperials parked outside, including his daily driver.

Don went through the transmission for a reasonable price. He reported that someone had been inside the transmission before, but they didn’t quite know how these old Torqueflites worked. The transmission was still in great shape, but needed the rebuild and a few missing and mis-matched parts replaced.

Don talked me out of replacing the torque convertor – he felt that these never go bad, and replacing them was unnecessary. Finally, a place to save money!

The engine went out to Custom Automotive Machine (Camco) in East Weymouth, MA. I have a friend who has a business restoring old Studebakers. He said that whenever he needs engine work he just sends it to Camco – he has had over a hundred engines done over the last 20 years with great results.

I had called Camco last year to discuss this project with them. They were familiar with the Chrysler 413, including knowing what parts were hard to get. They said that the knocking I was hearing sounded like a spun rod bearing, so don’t drive the car – the crank for a 413 is impossible to find, so if the crank is damaged the engine is probably a complete loss.

As it turned out, the knocking noise wasn’t a rod bearing – it was a broken piston! They found pieces of the piston skirt in the oil pan. They also found broken piston rings in two pistons. I have no idea how the engine managed to survive this without being destroyed.

They also found three cracks in the block. Fortunately not in structural areas, and they have a place that can repair cracks like this as good as new. Oh well, its only money…

So, the engine is now .030 over, new pistons and rings, bearings and seals, cam and lifters, and a head job with hardened valve seats

So I now have a completely rebuilt engine, beautifully painted in the factory turquoise color, sitting on a stand waiting to go back into the car. And several months of work ahead getting the engine bay ready to receive this work of art.

Next: Front End Deep Freeze

A long time since the last update. I’ve been working on the workshop: electrical is in and I now have power and light! While running electrical I also ran telephone and Internet out to the workshop – as I said, I’m a geek…

The Imperial is right at home in the workshop, which is a slightly oversize two car garage. There is enough room both for the car and to work! I’m getting really spoiled by having my tools where I need them. And a flat concrete floor is a fine luxury feature.

I spent the winter tracking down parts and suppliers. The engine and transmission need to be rebuilt, as does the entire front and rear suspension. This is going to get expensive very quickly.

I’ve started with a small victory: the spring was broken in the passenger windshield wiper arm, allowing it to flop around. Like everything else for old Imperials, the windshield wipers are a special part. Which, of course, is not available.

I had another pair of wiper arms that didn’t fit. I suddenly realized “hey, these wiper arms have a spring. I wonder if it would fit?”

Of course, it didn’t fit.

While staring at the old and new springs I noticed:

1. The hook had broken off one end of the original Imperial wiper arm spring.
2. The donor spring had two good hooks.
3. I have a welder.

So, cut the hook off and weld it onto the old spring. This took a while, as it was challenging to get the old and new spring lined up and stable so that I could weld. After a half second zap from the welder I had a spring with two ends on it. Reinstall the spring in the wiper arm, and I now have two working wipers.

It’s a small thing. But “the journey of a thousand miles begins with tripping over the shoelaces your friends have tied together”.

Next: Motor Out